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Exploring the interwoven gullies of Kathmandu can be a great pastime. The end results of such explorations vary. It won’t be a surprise if the inquisitive and intrepid traveller, passing through a narrow and dimly-lit passage by minding the sapien head, arrives at a chowk (a courtyard), the common property of several houses with a stupa, a chaitya or a temple at the centre along with a well.