On both sides of the line of control, Kashmiris watch, wait and prepare for war

India and Pakistan have fought two wars and faced frequent border clashes over Kashmir, leaving residents used to watching with dread whenever tensions rise.

Nestled between mountains in Indian-administered Kashmir, teachers lead school children in the village of Churanda in morning prayers, asking that the sound of swaying walnut trees and cooing birds not be replaced by the roaring of artillery.